Blogs Aircoparts.com provides vehicle air conditioning services. Our directory contains automobile air conditioning parts and informative details of automotive air conditioning specialists throughout the United States and the World http://aircoparts.com/table/a/c-articles/ Thu, 28 Mar 2024 16:15:34 +0000 Joomla! 1.5 - Open Source Content Management en-gb Custom A/C Hose Repair http://aircoparts.com/custom-ac-hose-repair.html Custom A/C Hose Repair and Replacement

Send in your a/c hose for repair or replacement to guarantee a first time fitment.

Your air conditioning system works much like the circulatory system of the human body. There are six major components in any AC system. These include the compressor, condenser, receiver-dryer, expansion valve, evaporator and coolant. The coolant acts as the life blood of the system, flowing from one component to the next before returning to start the cycle all over again. To get from one part to the next, the coolant runs through AC hoses. Continuing the circulatory system analogy, these components act as the veins of the system. Hoses are specially sized and designed to allow the free flow of both hot and cold liquid and gas. These tubes are flexible and feature metal crimpings at the end to prevent coolant leaks. If you notice that your air conditioning is as cold as it should and that coolant is collecting on the ground under your car, then you likely have a leak in your tube. To fix the problem the entire line will need to be replaced.

We can custom manufacture ac hoses and re-manufacture automobile a/c hoses for import and domestic cars and trucks. We also repair hoses for all makes and modes of vehicles including A/C Hoses, power steering hoses, transmission cooler lines, and new brake lines.

We specialize in A/C parts sales including new a/c hoses to fit your every need. We have the best prices on a/c kits, new and re-manufactured a/c compressors, accumulators/receivers, dryers, expansion valves, and orifice tubes. 

·       We stock thousands of parts in warehouses across the country:

·       Over 500 accumulators and receiver dryers.

·       Over 400 a/c fittings for hose repair in stock.

·       Compressors and related a/c components.  

·       Chemicals needed for servicing and repairing a/c systems.  

·       We fabricate:

·       New custom fit a/c hoses and components.  

·       New brake hoses, both OE and custom (rubber, stainless, and colored braid)

·       New brake hard lines with double flare plus bubble end. 

·       Custom fit power steering hoses and fittings.

·       We repair: 

 ·      Power steering hoses, A/C hoses, brake hoses, transmission cooler lines, fuel lines (limited). 

 

 

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A/C Articles Fri, 01 Apr 2011 07:06:14 +0000
Automobile Air Conditioning A/C Parts - A/C Compressors, A/C Condensers, Auto AC Parts, AC Compressors, AC Condensers, Auto Air Conditioning Repair http://aircoparts.com/ac-compressors.html

Acura A/C Parts

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Aircoparts.com provides vehicle air conditioning parts and services. Our directory contains automobile air conditioning parts and informative details of automotive air conditioning specialists throughout the United States and the World. Listings include companies who offer OEM and aftermarket car air conditioning parts and installation as well as maintenance and repairs. Please click on a logo below or view the list on the left of the page to view the a/c compressor application charts for each manufacturer.

Automobile Air Conditioning Parts and Service Information

AircoParts is a supplier of high quality new and remanufactured automobile vehicle air conditioning parts to many of our competitors as well as major car parts shops through out the nation. We can install vehicle air conditioning systems as well as repair any existing malfunctioning air conditioning system .

The best way to reduce the probability of your air conditioning system breaking down is to perform reqular maintenance and service checks on your vehicle air conditioning system.

Our extensive range of vehicle air conditioning parts means we carry most makes of compressors, condensers, and receiver driers for all models of cars.

A/C Condensers:

We also carry vast range of a/c condensers for all makes and models of vehicles including the OEM and after market installations.

Whatever your needs whever it be a complete service for an exsisting vehicle air conditioning a full and professional installation of a complete vehicle air conditioning system then look no further than AircoParts.com.

A/C COMPRESSORS

Once the refrigerant is drawn into the suction side of the A/C Compressor, it is compressed and sent to the a/c condenser, where it can then transfer the heat that is absorbed from the inside of the vehicle.

The a/c compressor compresses freon into a high pressure (and since temperature and pressure are relative), high temperature gas which is then sent to the condenser for the process of removing the heat. The fact that this temperature is greater than the outside temperature allows the heat to transfer to the outside air. This then causes the "gaseous" freon to "condense" back to a high pressure liquid. This high pressure liquid is then sent to the restriction in the system (that being an orifice, or a valve of some kind) which lowers the pressure causing the liquid to boil and vaporize (thus the term "evaporator"). It is then in this low pressure gas state that it is capable of absorbing the heat from inside the vehicle and sent back to the compressor for the cycle to repeat itself.

The compressor is lubricated with special oil. It is very important to use the correct oil to the compressor and system. Some seals and gaskets may not work with some oils.

Maintenance Tips / Suggestions: Symptoms of a bad compressor or compressor clutch include poor or no cooling, and a noisy or seized compressor. Have your vehicle?s air conditioning system checked yearly by a professional technician. The A/C system also operates when the climate control system is in the defroster mode to remove moisture from the interior, so A/C is more than a summertime creature comfort. Operating an A/C system low on refrigerant not only results in poor cooling, it can also damage the system due to poor lubrication flow. Make sure that the technician servicing your car uses the correct refrigerant and refrigerant oil. Use of the wrong refrigerant or oil can reduce system performance or even cause damage.

Vehicles are found to have primarily three different types of air conditioning systems. While each of the three types differ, the concept and design are very similar to one another.

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:02:47 +0000
A/C Leak Detection http://aircoparts.com/ac-leak-detection.html A/C Leak Detection & Sealing

1. How do I know if I might have a leak?
2. How do I find a leak?
3. Is it safe to keep dye in the system?
4. With dye remaining in the system, will the dye show any future leaks?
5. What types of leaks will leak sealers seal, and how do they work?
6. How fast will leak sealer work?
7. How long will  leak sealers keep leaks sealed?
8. Will  leak sealers seal ANY leak? What size hole will they seal?
9. Are  leak sealers safe for my A/C system? What does "System Safe" leak sealer mean?
10. Will  leak sealers damage a mechanic's A/C recovery and recycling equipment if refrigerant is removed later?
11. How will leak sealer affect my O-rings over time?
12. Which leak sealer product should I use -- MaxiSeal, Stop Leak & Detector, A/C Leak Sealer, or one of the refrigerants containing leak sealer additives?
13. Does the leak sealer included in some refrigerants work as well as separate cans of leak sealer alone?
14. How do I know if the leak sealer is working?
15. What if I use a leak sealer and recharge my system, but it's still not blowing cold?
16. Can I use  leak sealers with an R-1 system?
1. How do I know if I might have a leak?

If your A/C is not blowing cold you probably are low on refrigerant due to a leak. Most leaks are in rubber components such as O-rings, hoses and gaskets.


2. How do I find a leak?

The best way to find leaks is with our UV Leak Detection & Sealer Kit , which provides UV dye, fluorescence-enhancing glasses and UV light, as well as leak sealer. You can also buy our UV dye separately.

3. Is it safe to keep dye in the system?

Yes. The dye will not affect A/C performance.

4. With dye remaining in the system, will the dye show any future leaks?

Yes, the dye will continue to work the same way.

5. What types of leaks will leak sealers seal, and how do they work?

Maxi Seal seals both rubber and metal leaks. The metal leak sealer works by reacting with air and condensed moisture outside the system at the site of the leak.

6. How fast will leak sealer work?

The leak sealer will take effect within 1 day of installation.

7. How long will leak sealers keep leaks sealed?

It of course depends on the nature of the leak, but typically leaks are sealed for approx 12 months of A/C usage.

8. Will  leak sealers seal ANY leak? What size hole will they seal?

They seal small holes that leak less than one can per month.

9. Are leak sealers safe for my A/C system? What does "System Safe" leak sealer mean?

Yes.  “System Safe” leak sealer is a gentle o-ring conditioner that does not destroy o-rings.

10. Will Interdynamics leak sealers damage a mechanic's A/C recovery and recycling equipment if refrigerant is removed later?

11. How will a leak sealer affect my O-rings over time?

Interdynamics “System Safe” leak sealer will rejuvenate and condition your o-rings. There is no deterioration over time.

12. Which leak sealer product should I use -- MaxiSeal, Stop Leak & Detector, A/C Leak Sealer, or one of the refrigerants containing leak sealer additives?

A/C Leak Sealer is leak sealer alone, and seals leaks in rubber components such as O-rings, hoses and gaskets.
Stop Leak & Detector has both leak sealer (for rubber components) and red dye to help you spot the location of any larger leaks that are too big to seal and require replacement.

Maxi Seal seals leaks in both rubber and metal components. It is recommended as a potential fix for older vehicles that are not candidates for mechanical repair.

13. Does the leak sealer included in some refrigerants work as well as separate cans of leak sealer alone?

Yes, and  leak sealers are specially formulated to gently rejuvenate your o-rings without damaging them.

14. How do I know if the leak sealer is working?

Your system will leak less refrigerant than it did previously.
You cannot find a leak with the UV light that was there previously.
Your system continues to blow cold air.

15. What if I use a leak sealer and recharge my system, but it's still not blowing cold?

You should seek professional help.

16. Can I use leak sealers with an R-1 system?

No. The system must be retrofitted first.

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:25:53 +0000
A/C Retrofitting http://aircoparts.com/ac-retrofitting.html A/C Retrofitting

1. How do I know if I need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a? (How do I know if I have an R-12 system or R-134a?)
2. Can't I just recharge with R-12 refrigerant?
3. Can I just add R-134a to an R-12 system without retrofitting?
4. How do I find the low-pressure port?
5. Do I need to have the R-12 vacuumed out or can I leave some R-12 in the system?
6. Do I have to use the high side fitting?
7. Can I mix R-134a with a little remaining R12 in my system?
8. Whyuse Ester Oil instead of PAG Oil?
9. Do I need to remove the oil that's in the system? Is the old oil compatible with the new oil?
10. Do I have to change A/C system components to retrofit?
11. What's different about "High Mileage" refrigerant?
12. Why did vehicle manufacturers change from R-12 A/C systems to R-134a ?
13. When installing the service port adapters, do I have to remove the valve core from the original service port?
14. How do you actually do the retrofit with the Interdynamics kit?
15. Can I use the Retrofit Kit if I am opening the system and replacing components?
16. Does a Retrofit Kit actually work?
17. Where did the Retrofit method come from?
18. How well does R-134a work in a retrofitted R-12 system?
19. How much R-134a do you use to fill a system?
20. Are there any restrictions on the sale of R-134a Refrigerant?
21. Don't you have to flush the system?
22. Doesn't R-134a need higher pressure to work? Won't that damage my R-12 system?
23. What direction should the can be when charging – right side up or upside down?
24. How long should it take to put a can of refrigerant into an air conditioning system?
25. What about some of these "drop-in" Replacement Refrigerants for R-12 that I have heard about? Are they any good?
1. How do I know if I need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a? (How do I know if I have an R-12 system or R-134a?)

If your car is a 1994 or earlier model, you probably have an R-12 system and need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a. Check under the hood for a label indicating whether the system is R-12 or R-134a.

2. Can't I just recharge with R-12 refrigerant?

Because environmental regulations have required vehicle manufacturers to stop using R-12 systems and to use only R-134a systems, R-12 has become scarce and therefore extremely expensive. Also, R-12 can only be obtained and used for recharge by a certified mechanic. Retrofitting and recharging with R-134a refrigerant is much less expensive than recharging with R-12.

3. Can I just add R-134a to an R-12 system without retrofitting?

No. Federal Law prohibits “topping off” an R-12 system with a different refrigerant. All R-12 refrigerant must be properly evacuated before any other type of refrigerant can be added. Most mechanics will remove your old R-12 for free because they can recycle it and sell it at a profit.

4. How do I find the low-pressure port?

The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. To locate the low-pressure port:

   1. Find the compressor.
   2. Find large diameter metal tubing that leads from the compressor back to the fire wall.
   3. Find port on this tube. Our quick-connect coupler should fit onto this port. To be sure, compare with the port on the other tube (smaller tube) that leads from the compressor to the condenser near the radiator. This port is larger and is the High Side port. Our quick-connect coupler will NOT fit on the High Side port.
   4. Do not attempt to connect to the high side port as this can cause a can of refrigerant to explode.
   5. Sometimes the low side port is on-or-near the compressor, sometimes it’s on an accumulator near the firewall…not on the large diameter metal tube.

Examples of Low-pressure (low-side) port locations
Buick LeSabre
Pontica Bonneville
Olds 88/Regency
Toyota Camry
Ford Taurus
Honda
Saturn
Mitsubishi Galant
VW Passat

5. Do I need to have the R-12 vacuumed out or can I leave some R-12 in the system?

ALL the R-12 in the system must be recovered. This must be done without venting (releasing the gas into the atmosphere) by a certified mechanic using approved R-12 Recovery equipment. Many installers will do this without charge, because the R-12 they recover from your system is valuable.

6. Do I have to use the high side fitting?

When retrofitting, it is required by law to change the adapters on the high side and low side ports. Even though you will not use the high side port during any charging procedure. At some later date, if further servicing was needed, a professional may use this port for certain procedures.

7. Can I mix R-134a with a little remaining R12 in my system?

No, the system must be evacuated first down to a vacuum measured at approx 29 inches of water.

8. Why does Interdynamics use Ester Oil instead of PAG Oil?

While both lubricants are used with R-134a, Ester is believed to be better for Retrofit systems because it is compatible with the residual mineral oil left after evacuating a R-12 system.
In addition, Ester oil is a preferred top-off oil because it is compatible with ALL PAG Oils and is much less hygroscopic, which means that it does absorb as much water from the atmosphere as PAG Oils do. This moisture can create problems in a vehicle's A/C system.

Ester is also a truly Universal lubricant which has a Single Viscosity. PAG Oils come in a variety of viscosities which must be matched to the vehicle. GM vehicles use a high viscosity (150) PAG Oil, and non-GM vehicles use a low viscosity (46) PAG Oil. You cannot use a 100 viscosity PAG Oil as a "1 size fits all" universal lubricant. Ester Oil, however, is truly universal and will lubricate properly regardless of viscosity.

9. Do I need to remove the oil that's in the system? Is the old oil compatible with the new oil?

No. The residual mineral oil left behind after you evacuate a R-12 system will not mix with the new R-134a refrigerant. That is why we add Ester Oil, because it will mix with R-134a, lubricate the system components and is compatible with the residual Mineral oil.

The mineral oil just collects in a low place in the system (such as the accumulator), where it stays, until it is removed at some later date during future maintenance or repair. The mineral oil does no good, but it does no harm either. It's just there.

10. Do I have to change A/C system components to retrofit?

In the beginning, when retrofitting vehicle air conditioning systems first came up, it was assumed that major components of the system designed for use with R-12 would have to be changed to R-134a compatible components. As more research was done, and as vehicles were actually retrofitted, the industry learned more and more about the process, namely that much less had to be done than was originally thought.

If an R-12 system is functioning properly, components do not have to be changed, and the R-12 refrigerant can be replaced with R-134a without opening up the system. If, however, the system is not functioning and repairs must be made, then the defective parts should be replaced with R-134a compatible parts.

R-134a is a smaller molecule than R-12, so R-134a hoses are designed to contain it properly. In an R-12 system, the original hoses and O-rings absorbed some of the mineral oil in the system and are coated internally with mineral oil forming a protective barrier. So, if they are not damaged, R-12 hoses and O-rings do not need to be replaced.

11. What's different about "High Mileage" refrigerant?

Interdynamics’ “High Mileage” refrigerant contains a proprietary formulation of lubricant enhancers that helps your old compressor run easier. This will make the compressor last longer and run quieter.

It contains special anti-wear and lubricant additives to restore an older A/C systems performance.

12. Why did vehicle manufacturers change from R-12 A/C systems to R-134a ?

In the mid-1990s, environmental regulations required vehicle manufacturers to stop manufacturing A/C systems that use R-12 refrigerant, which is an ozone-depleting substance (called a "CFC"), and to change to A/C systems that use R-134a refrigerant, which is NOT an ozone-depleting substance.

13. When installing the service port adapters, do I have to remove the valve core from the original service port?

Usually not.

On very few older GM models this is necessary and this is for the high side adapter only.

If your original R-12 valve cores are leaking they should be replaced after you remove all the R-12 and before you actually pull the vacuum. You can test for leakage by placing some ester oil on top of the valve core and seeing if any bubbles occur.

All ID low side port adapters fit over the existing R-12 ports and do not require the removal of the existing schrader valve core.
Most cars have high side ports that accept the ID high side port adapter that fits over the port so again, in this case, the valve core does not have to be removed.

14. How do you actually do the retrofit?

   1. EVACUATE the R-12, if there is any left in the system. This must be done without venting (releasing the gas into the atmosphere) by a certified mechanic using approved R-12 Recovery equipment. Many installers will do this without charge, because the R-12 they recover from your system is valuable.
   2. Attach Adaptor to the low-pressure port: [photo]The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor (see question above, "How do I find the low-pressure port?"). Remove the dust cap . Attach the adapter to the low-pressure port.
   3. Charge the System: [photo]Assemble the hose and refrigerant can. Be sure the engine is operating and the A/C is set to maximum cooling. Proceed to charge the system.
   4. Check Pressure & Attach Label:Measure the system pressure at any time by closing the can valve. Refer to the pressure gauge chart for refrigerant level. Confirm proper pressure, disconnect charging hose, reattach blue dust cap and attach retrofit label.

15. Can I use the Retrofit Kit if I am opening the system and replacing components?

Yes, but with a couple of changes. First, if you are replacing any components of your A/C system, be sure that the replacement items are compatible with R-134a. Also check and see if flushing is recommended after installing the new component. In addition, as long as the system is open, this is a good time to remove the any remaining mineral oil.

When the system is open, you should use a POURABLE Ester Oil instead of the aerosol Oil Charge that comes with many of our kits. Pour it into the system and then, after closing the system, crank the compressor 25 times by hand to distribute the new lubricant, and then charge with R-134a to 80 to 85% of the original R-12 Capacity.

When replacing the compressor, make sure that the new compressor is compatible with R-134a, and use whatever oil the compressor recommends (PAG or Ester) in order to maintain the compressor warranty.


17. Where did the Retrofit method come from?

Described by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in a July 1996 document titled: "KEEPING YOUR CUSTOMER'S CAR COOL: SOME GUIDANCE IN RETROFITTING A/C SYSTEMS TO R-134A". The EPA refers to a "Least-Cost Aftermarket Retrofit" in which the system is not opened and there are no major component changes.

18. How well does R-134a work in a retrofitted R-12 system?

On most vehicles the air coming out the vent will be the same. On some vehicles the R-134a air will be a couple of degrees colder. On some other vehicles (rear wheel drive domestic vehicles) the duct temperature may be 2-4 degrees warmer. This is considered an insignificant amount, and based on our experience selling over 20 million retrofit kits since 1996, users are extremely satisfied with the results.

19. How much R-134a do you use to fill a system?

You fill a system with 80-85% of the original R-12 Volume. Since there are 3 oz. of R-134a used as a propellant in the Oil provided in the kit, three 12 oz. cans of R-134a should be sufficient. The amount of R-12 Refrigerant in the system can be found in the service manual or on a service plate located in the engine compartment of the vehicle.

We also provide accurate pressure gauges to make it easy to fill the system to the proper level.

20. Are there any restrictions on the sale of R-134a Refrigerant?

At the present time, there are NO FEDERAL RESTRICTIONS on the sale of R-134a Refrigerant, because it is not an Ozone Depleting Substance or "CFC". The sale of R-134a is restricted in the state of Wisconsin, where it can only be sold to certified technicians.

21. Don't you have to flush the system?

Since a functioning system is not "opened" with the Interdynamics Retrofit Kit, flushing is not necessary.

22. Doesn't R-134a need higher pressure to work? Won't that damage my R-12 system?

R-134a systems are designed to run at higher pressure than an R-12 system, which is why we use less R-134a than the amount of R-12 in the system (80-85%). This keeps the pressure at the appropriate level.

23. What direction should the can be when charging – right side up or upside down?

Plain refrigerant should be installed as a gas, with the can rightside up. If it's a can with refrigerant and oil or other additives, install as a gas by continually shaking the can during installation to prevent the other chemicals from settling to the bottom. Finish with the can upside down.

24. How long should it take to put a can of refrigerant into an air conditioning system?

It should only take a few minutes.


25. What about some of these "drop-in" Replacement Refrigerants for R-12 that I have heard about? Are they any good?

The EPA points out that only R-134a has been tested and approved by automakers for use in their vehicles, and it is also the only Replacement Refrigerant for R-12 that is widely available.

EPA adds that there is NO SUCH THING AS A "DROP-IN", since refrigerants CANNOT BE MIXED in an A/C System. In addition, ANY REPLACEMENT REFRIGERANT MUST HAVE:

    * Unique Fittings for the Service Ports
    * Unique Charging Devices
    * Unique Label

In addition, any replacement refrigerant containing R-22 requires replacing system hoses with Barrier Hoses.

It should also be noted that some of the more talked about Replacement Refrigerants are made from up to 80% R-134a.

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:20:31 +0000
A/C Recharging http://aircoparts.com/ac-recharging.html A/C Recharging

1. How do I know if I need to retrofit before recharging? (How do I know if I have an R12 system or R-134a?)
2. How do I find the low-side port?
3. If I put in refrigerant (top off), do I need to add oil too? If so, what type and how much?
4. How much refrigerant should I put in?
5. Do I need to vacuum out my system before charging?
6. What does Xycleen System Cleaner do and how does it work?
7. What's different about "High Mileage" refrigerant?
1. How do I know if I need to retrofit before recharging? (How do I know if I have an R12 system or R-134a?)

If your car is a 1994 or earlier model, you probably have an R-12 system and need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a. Check under the hood for a label indicating whether the system is R-12 or R-134a.
2. How do I find the low-side port?

The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. To locate the low-pressure port:

   1. Find the compressor.
   2. Find large diameter metal tubing that leads from the compressor back to the fire wall.
   3. Find port on this tube. Our quick-connect coupler should fit onto this port. To be sure, compare with the port on the other tube (smaller tube) that leads from the compressor to the condenser near the radiator. This port is larger and is the High Side port. Our quick-connect coupler will NOT fit on the High Side port.
   4. Do not attempt to connect to the high side port as this can cause a can of refrigerant to explode.
   5. Sometimes the low side port is on-or-near the compressor, sometimes it’s on an accumulator near the firewall…not on the large diameter metal tube.

Examples of Low-pressure (low-side) port locations
Buick LeSabre
Pontica Bonneville
Olds 88/Regency
Toyota Camry
Ford Taurus
Honda
Saturn
Mitsubishi Galant
VW Passat
3. If I put in refrigerant (top off), do I need to add oil too? If so, what type and how much?

Interdynamics’ top off products contain the proper ratio of replacement oil.
4. How much refrigerant should I put in?

We recommend using a pressure gauge for an accurate fill. Interdynamics' color-coded gauges will indicate whether you should continue filling (charging) or not. If you have just retrofitted from an R-12 system and had all the R-12 refrigerant removed, you should fill a system with R-134a at 80-85% of the original R-12 Volume. (Consult your owners manual or sticker under the hood for original R-12 volume).
5. Do I need to vacuum out my system before charging?

If the pressure gauge indicates that the A/C system pressure is lower than 10psi, air has likely entered your system, so your system should be vacuumed out.
6. What does Xycleen System Cleaner do and how does it work?

Xycleen removes sediment in the A/C system for smoother flow of refrigerant and oil and creates a cleaner, more efficient system (for better cooling). It continuously cleans, preventing the redeposit of previously removed sediment. [graph link]
7. What's different about "High Mileage" refrigerant?

Interdynamics’ “High Mileage” refrigerant contains a proprietary formulation of lubricant enhancers that helps your old compressor run easier. This will make the compressor last longer and run quieter.
It contains special anti-wear and lubricant additives to restore an older A/C systems performance.]]>
A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:19:53 +0000
A/C System Basics http://aircoparts.com/ac-system-basics.html A/C SYSTEM OVERVIEW

 

There are three primary components in a vehicle’s air conditioning system including the compressor, condenser, and evaporator. These parts are connected by tubes and hoses to form a continuous path with two distinct sections: a high-pressure side and a low-pressure side. In order to transfer heat from the vehicle’s interior to the outside air, a chemical refrigerant is circulated throughout the system. In theory, the A/C system accomplishes the same task as the engine’s cooling system, in that both absorb the heat from one area and release it to another (heat transfer). While coolant remains a liquid during the heat transfer process however, refrigerant repeatedly alternates between a liquid and a gas as it circulates throughout the air conditioning system.


THE REFRIGERANT CYCLE

The refrigerant cycle involves a three-step process that includes pressurization, condensation, and vaporization. Starting at the compressor, let’s identify these steps as we trace the flow of refrigerant through the system (See A/C System Diagrams: Orifice Tube A/C System and Expansion Valve A/C System). The refrigerant enters the compressor through the suction port as a low-pressure vapor. After squeezing this vapor into a confined area (pressurization), it is released through the compressor’s discharge port. By pressurizing the refrigerant, the compressor causes the refrigerant vapor to become much hotter than the outside air. This ensures that it will change to a liquid as the cycle enters the next phase.

Once pressurized, the compressor pumps the high-pressure refrigerant vapor to the condenser, which is located directly behind the grille in front of the radiator. As outside air is drawn over the condenser by the engine fan, or forced past it by the ram-air effect, the incoming air absorbs the heat contained in the high-pressure vapor. This causes the vapor to condense into a high-pressure liquid, completing the second phase of the process (condensation).

As the refrigerant leaves the condenser, it makes its way toward the evaporator, which is located within the air hadling case along with the blower. Before entering the evaporator, the refrigerant flows through a metering device. This results in a significant drop in pressure, allowing the refrigerant to vaporize at a lower temperature. This ensures that the refrigerant will absorb the maximum amount of heat as the blower forces warm air over the evaporator. At this point, the vaporization phase is complete, and the heat-laden vapor is drawn back into the compressor so the cycle can be repeated.

Since heat is removed from the air during the vaporization phase, the air exits the panel vents at a much lower temperature. This not only results in cool air, but dehumidified air as well. Remember, warm air has high moisture content. Consequently, when the warm air comes in contact with the cold evaporator, the moisture condenses on the evaporator surface and eventually drains onto the ground. This is why a puddle of water forms under the car after it has been shut off with the air conditioner on.

A/C SYSTEMS
Air Conditioning Component Locator     Air Conditioning Component Locator

Orifice tube air conditioning systems regulate refrigerant flow to the evaporator using a fixed metering device (orifice tube).
    
In an expansion valve air conditioning system, refrigerant flow to the evaporator varies according to the pressure in the suction line (evaporator outlet). This is detected by a sensing bulb mounted on the line, and relayed to the expansion valve via a capillary tube.


A/C COMPONENTS


Compressor

Radial CompressorAxial CompressorThe compressor is a pump that pressurizes and circulates the refrigerant in the air conditioning system. It is mounted on the front of the engine and driven by the serpentine drive belt or its own individual belt. The compressor also serves as one of the two junctions separating the high and low sides of the system.
 
Condenser

CondenserSimilar to the radiator, the condenser is a large heat exchanger located directly behind the grille. As part of the system’s high side, the condenser is used liquefy the high-pressure vapor discharged from the compressor. A condenser consists of a series of tubes surrounded by thin fins, which provide a large surface area for heat dissipation. While there are various tubing arrangements used, refrigerant flow is always from top to bottom.
 
Evaporator

Evaporator Like the condenser, the evaporator is also a heat exchanger consisting of tubes and fins. However, that’s where the similarity ends. Unlike a condenser, which is designed to release large quantities of heat, an evaporator is used to absorb large quantities of heat. An evaporator is also much smaller than a condenser and is part of the system’s low side. Evaporators are located in the air handling case along with the blower.
 
Metering Devices

Metering devices are used to regulate the flow of liquid refrigerant into the evaporator. They also serve as one of the two junctions between the high and low sides of the system. There are two basic types of metering devices used in A/C systems: fixed and variable.
Orifice Tube
Orifice Tube

This is a fixed metering device located inside the liquid line between the condenser and evaporator. The orifice tube is enclosed within a plastic housing and protected by a fine mesh filter. The filter prevents debris from clogging the tube.
Expansion ValveExpansion Valve

A variable metering device that varies refrigerant flow based on cooling demand. As demand increases, the valve opens wider to permit more refrigerant into the evaporator. Once the demand has been satisfied, the valve opening is reduced to decrease flow. Cooling demand is monitored by a sensing bulb mounted on or near the evaporator.

Although there are a variety of A/C systems used in cars and light trucks, they are all generally classified according to the type of metering device they use. Consequently, an A/C system is either referred to as an orifice tube system or an expansion valve system.
Receiver Dryer or Accumulator

Receiver DryerAccumulatorDepending on the vehicle, the A/C system will either have a receiver dryer or an accumulator. Both of these components contain a desiccant, which is a chemical that attracts moisture. The desiccant serves a vital function, since the combination of water and refrigerant forms corrosive acids. Acids not only reduce A/C performance, they can ultimately destroy the system. The receiver dryer and accumulator also serve as temporary holding tanks for liquid refrigerant.

Although these two parts serve similar purposes, the receiver dryer is connected to the condenser outlet (high-pressure side) and is used exclusively in expansion valve systems. In contrast, the accumulator is attached to the evaporator outlet (low-pressure side), and is only found in orifice tube systems. The primary functional difference is that the accumulator is designed to prevent liquid refrigerant from being drawn into the compressor.
REFRIGERANT

Regardless of the type, all air conditioning systems function according to a basic law of physics that states ‘a fluid absorbs heat as it changes from a liquid to a gas, and a vapor releases heat as it changes from a gas to a liquid.’ In an A/C system, refrigerant is the transfer medium used to absorb the heat inside the passenger compartment and release it to the outside air. Refrigerant is a tasteless, odorless gas with an ability to change state rapidly within a specific temperature range. It is also oil soluble and non-corrosive. While there are scores of refrigerants on the market, there are only two types approved by vehicle manufacturers: R-12 and R-134a.

R-12, commonly referred to as Freon, has long been used as the refrigerant in all automotive A/C systems. However, R-12 contains chlorine, which is the primary cause of ozone layer damage. Consequently, legislation was passed calling for a halt in R-12 production by 1996. Long before the phase-out of R-12 began however, the automotive industry conducted extensive research and development to find an environmentally friendly alternative. They ultimately selected R-134a as the new refrigerant, and began using it in vehicles as early as 1992.

R-134a is similar to R-12, in that it absorbs, transfers, and releases heat efficiently. It is also non-flammable, and mixes well with oil, just like R-12. However, R-134a does have some unique characteristics.

    * R-134a requires a special synthetic lubricant since it does not mix with mineral oil (standard R-12 lubricant).
    * R-134a operates at higher discharge pressures than R-12. Therefore, systems using R-134a may not cool as well as R-12 when the vehicle is idling for extended periods (e.g. heavy traffic).
    * R-134a and R-12 cannot be mixed, which is why separate equipment is needed to service vehicles using either refrigerant.

Depending on the vehicle, refrigerant capacity can range anywhere from about 28 ounces (1.75 lbs.) to as much as 64 ounces (4.00 lbs.) or more. To avoid an improper charge, always consult the manufacturer's specifications for refrigerant capacity. An improper charge will cause reduced system performance, and may even result in system damage.
REFRIGERANT OIL

In order to function properly, an A/C system requires the appropriate type and amount of oil. In addition to lubricating the compressor, refrigerant oil also maintains the operation of the expansion valve on systems so equipped. Since the oil is transported through the system by the refrigerant, it has to be compatible with the type of refrigerant being used. Mineral oil is the lubricant used for all R-12 systems, while R-134a systems use synthetic oils such as PAG (polyalkylene glycol) and POE (polyolester).

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:15:23 +0000
A/C Recharging http://aircoparts.com/ac-recharging.html A/C Recharging

1. How do I know if I need to retrofit before recharging? (How do I know if I have an R12 system or R-134a?)
2. How do I find the low-side port?
3. If I put in refrigerant (top off), do I need to add oil too? If so, what type and how much?
4. How much refrigerant should I put in?
5. Do I need to vacuum out my system before charging?
6. What does Xycleen System Cleaner do and how does it work?
7. What's different about "High Mileage" refrigerant?
1. How do I know if I need to retrofit before recharging? (How do I know if I have an R12 system or R-134a?)

If your car is a 1994 or earlier model, you probably have an R-12 system and need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a. Check under the hood for a label indicating whether the system is R-12 or R-134a.
2. How do I find the low-side port?

The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. To locate the low-pressure port:

   1. Find the compressor.
   2. Find large diameter metal tubing that leads from the compressor back to the fire wall.
   3. Find port on this tube. Our quick-connect coupler should fit onto this port. To be sure, compare with the port on the other tube (smaller tube) that leads from the compressor to the condenser near the radiator. This port is larger and is the High Side port. Our quick-connect coupler will NOT fit on the High Side port.
   4. Do not attempt to connect to the high side port as this can cause a can of refrigerant to explode.
   5. Sometimes the low side port is on-or-near the compressor, sometimes it’s on an accumulator near the firewall…not on the large diameter metal tube.

Examples of Low-pressure (low-side) port locations
Buick LeSabre
Pontica Bonneville
Olds 88/Regency
Toyota Camry
Ford Taurus
Honda
Saturn
Mitsubishi Galant
VW Passat


3. If I put in refrigerant (top off), do I need to add oil too? If so, what type and how much?

Interdynamics’ top off products contain the proper ratio of replacement oil.
4. How much refrigerant should I put in?

We recommend using a pressure gauge for an accurate fill. Interdynamics' color-coded gauges will indicate whether you should continue filling (charging) or not. If you have just retrofitted from an R-12 system and had all the R-12 refrigerant removed, you should fill a system with R-134a at 80-85% of the original R-12 Volume. (Consult your owners manual or sticker under the hood for original R-12 volume).
5. Do I need to vacuum out my system before charging?

If the pressure gauge indicates that the A/C system pressure is lower than 10psi, air has likely entered your system, so your system should be vacuumed out.
6. What does Xycleen System Cleaner do and how does it work?

Xycleen removes sediment in the A/C system for smoother flow of refrigerant and oil and creates a cleaner, more efficient system (for better cooling). It continuously cleans, preventing the redeposit of previously removed sediment. [graph link]
7. What's different about "High Mileage" refrigerant?

Interdynamics’ “High Mileage” refrigerant contains a proprietary formulation of lubricant enhancers that helps your old compressor run easier. This will make the compressor last longer and run quieter.
It contains special anti-wear and lubricant additives to restore an older A/C systems performance.

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:11:15 +0000
A/C Evacuate & Recharge http://aircoparts.com/ac-evacuate.html How to completely evacuate and recharge your A/C system. 

A thorough evacuation is necessary after servicing or replacing system components or when converting to Freeze 12, R134a, or any other refrigerant.  It simply shows the steps required to draw a vacuum on the system to remove moisture and other contaminants and charge the system with oil and the refrigerant of your choice.  The necessity of properly capturing any refrigerant already in the system must be noted.  You really should do yourself, the rest of us, and the environment a favor and have that stuff removed and recycled by someone with a lot more experience and the proper equipment.  Of course, if you have already had this done, you can skip over all the vacuum pump stuff and move on to the “just make it cold again” stuff.

The faq is also not intended to be complete “how to” for conversions although the evacuation and charge procedures will be the final steps in any conversion.  Only the connectors will be different.

The processes described here involve toxic chemicals under high pressures.  Please read the instructions that come with any equipment you purchase, rent, or borrow.  By all means, please be careful and enjoy a frosty beverage AFTER you have completed the work.

Two final things: Do not take this article as an advertisement for Freeze 12.  It is simply what I was using on the day the pictures were taken.  I used it as I have had success with it in the past and I didn’t want to replace anything more than the refrigerant and oil.  R134a is probably a better long-term solution and there are other refrigerants available as well.  Do your research and choose the one that best fits your needs.  I also am far from an expert on these things.  Please feel free to submit corrections and/or additions to this document.  I would like to see this grow to include the full conversion procedures and upgrades.

Stuff You Will Need
 
Manifold Gauges – A serviceable set can be purchased for less than $50.  Less if you purchase them used.  Not too bad when compared the what you would pay someone else to just top your system up and you can use them to diagnose problems with your A/C (refrigerator, etc.) later.

Vacuum Pump  - These things are fairly expensive.  Stand alone units start in the $250 range.  There are air driven ones available for about $50, but you need a compressor capable of delivering 80-100 psi continuously for over half an hour.  This burns up tons of electricity and is very noisy.  I was able to borrow the one pictured below.  You may be able to rent one.  

Small Thermometer – You may already have one of these in your kitchen.  Handy to have and they only cost a couple of bucks.  You will use this to measure the performance of the system when you complete the charging.
Refrigeration Oil, Refrigerant, and the connections required for dispensing them.  Freeze 12 is pictured, but the basic setup will be similar for R12 (good luck finding it!), R134a, and any other refrigerants.  Each refrigerant is required to have a unique fitting to prevent mixing different types.  The thing with the blue cap is a fitting to convert the standard R12 fitting to the Freeze 12 fitting.  Also make sure the type of oil you purchase is compatible with the refrigerant you are using.  Again, do your research!  

Haynes Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Techbook – This is a great book.  It goes into much greater detail than I do here.  It also provides troubleshooting procedures. 
                                                                     Evacuating the System

I will assume you have replaced the part that got you to this point already and have checked all of the system plumbing for tightness.  The first thing to do is get the gauges connected.  Nothing tricky here.  You just have to identify the high pressure side and low pressure (suction) side of the system.  On the E12, the high pressure valve is on the receiver/dryer bottle and the low pressure valve on a line just below and forward of the receiver/dryer.  The blue hose from your manifold gauges goes on the low side.  The red one goes on the high side.  There is a yellow line coming from the gauges as well.  It is the service line.  It is the one you use to pull things out of or put things into the system.  The photo also shows a nice vacuum gauge I borrowed from the same guy I got the pump from.  It wasn’t needed.  The manifold gauges will tell you all you need to know.

I started this process by purging my system with compressed nitrogen.  This may not be practical unless you know someone with a cylinder.  If you do, it is a good idea.  It is inert and works as a good pressure test to check for leaks.  When cranked to 200 psi, you'll know if you have any leaks.  If you don’t have access to compressed nitrogen, don’t sweat it.  Deep vacuuming of the system will get all that nasty moisture out of the system anyway.

Connect the yellow line to the vacuum pump and ensure both the high and low side valves on the manifold gauges are closed.  Read the instructions for the vacuum pump before turning it on and make sure it has oil in it (doesn’t apply to the air driven venturi type).  The pump I used had very specific instructions for starting.  It required opening a valve on top of the pump, starting the pump, then closing the valve.

After starting the pump, open both the high and low side valves on the manifold gauges.  Verify the low side gauge indicates a vacuum (picture at left).  The low side gauge indicates both pressure (psi) and vacuum (in/hg).  If it does not go below zero, you have a sizeable leak and will need to correct it before you continue.  Assuming you are showing a vacuum, let the pump run for five minutes, close the high side valve, and turn the pump off.  Note the reading on the low side gauge.  Wait five or more minutes and then check the reading again.  Any decrease in indicated vacuum indicates a leak that still needs to be corrected.  If this happens, check the connections to the gauges and pump first.  Once you are satisfied there are no leaks, turn the pump back on, open the high side valve again and let the pump run for at least thirty minutes.

After the time has passed, close both the high and low side valves and turn off the vacuum pump following the shutdown procedure for the pump.  You can then disconnect the yellow line from the pump satisfied that you have removed all of the air and moisture from the system.

Adding Oil

Your compressor needs oil to function.  The oil used is carried through the system by the refrigerant and chances are you lost some while you were servicing things.  If you are doing the R134a conversion, you should remove the compressor and drain all of the existing mineral oil, as it is not compatible with R134a.  You should also replace the receiver/dryer.  Measure the amount of oil contained in each by pouring it into a suitable container.  I was replacing a damaged receiver/dryer so I just measured what was in it and purchased enough to replace it.  If you have the compressor or receiver dryer off, you can simply pour the oil into them before installation.  Small cans of the proper oil can be installed using the newly created vacuum to pull the oil into the system.

The car should not be running at this point.  Using the can tapping valve, connect the service line, opened the valve on the can and cracked the service line connection at the manifold until oil started to leak out to purge any air out of the service line.  Holding the oil can upside down (valve down), open the low side valve on the manifold gauge.  The vacuum will pull the oil into the system.  When you have determined the can is empty, close the low side valve and the valve on the can.  You should now be ready to charge the system.
Charging With Refrigerant

Start the car. Turn the A/C temperature control to its highest setting, and the fan to low.  Allow the car to idle like this for about five minutes to settle the pressures and temperatures in the system.  During this time, connect a can of refrigerant to the can tapping valve and connect it to the service line on the manifold gauges.  After the system has stabilized, turn the A/C fan to high.  Open the valve on the refrigerant can and purge the line like you did with the oil.  Now open the low side valve on the manifold gauges.  I usually put the refrigerant in as a liquid.  Invert the refrigerant can to do this (valve down).  When doing this NEVER OPEN THE HIGH SIDE VALVE.  The system is not capable of compressing the liquid.  When the can is empty, shut off the low side valve, shut off the can valve, and remove the can from the valve.  Repeat with the next can as necessary.  It will probably take two or three cans (depending on the refrigerant you use) to fill the system.  You can consult the Haynes manual to learn how to use the gauges to determine when the system is full or just use the sight glass on the receiver/dryer.  The sight glass is very easy to use: keep adding refrigerant until you stop seeing bubbles in the sight glass. (Note: if charging with R134a and stock condensor, you may not be able to get a full sight glass before you've reached the high limit of condensing pressure. A good rule of thumb with R134a is to run fan on High with all windows open and engine at 1500 rpm. High side pressure in PSI should be about 2.2 to 2.5 times outside air temperature in degrees F. Example if it's 90 degrees F, high side should be no higher than 225PSI. - Peter Florance)

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:06:41 +0000
A/C Compressor Cores http://aircoparts.com/ac-compressor-cores.html A/C COMPRESSOR CORES

Remanufactured Compressors carry no core charges so you don't have to worry about an additional fee.

Most Places Charge a core charge that is added to the compressor purchase price at time of checkout. To save you time and money we don't do that here. We may ask that you send back your old unit - but we'll pay for the shipping.

What Is A Core?:

A used compressor does not qualify as a core unless it can be remanufactured. The used compressor must meet the following requirements to be considered a rebuildable core:


1. The compressor must not be damaged. It must be the identical model of the purchased compressor. It must have all it's ears and/or mounting pads intact. It must have no broken bolts or studs and no stripped (threaded) holes.
2. The clutch hub, pulley and coil must not be damaged and must be mounted on the compressor as it was intended. The coil pin on the front head must be intact. The clutch must not be burned and the pulley must rotate smoothly.
3. The drive shaft must turn smoothly at least three (3) full revolutions in one direction and must have suction and discharge pressure present.
4. The core must be drained of all lubricant and have all of its openings sealed.
5. The core must be returned in a sturdy box and received within 15 days from receipt of the purchased compressor. Please make sure the core is packaged securely as to avoid any shipping damages.
6. The box must contain a copy of the original invoice for the purchased compressor.
7. The purchaser is responsible for all costs to return the core.
8. The compressor has not been altered or taken apart.
9. No damage or cracks to the exterior case, mounting ears, service valves or bosses.
10. Some Suction and Discharge pressure must be felt. No sootiness or debris is evident in the discharge port.
11. The complete clutch assembly must be attached and not bent, burnt or seized.
12. All wires must be attached and uncut.

Maintenance Tips / Suggestions: Symptoms of a bad compressor or compressor clutch include poor or no cooling, and a noisy or seized compressor. Have your vehicle?s air conditioning system checked yearly by a professional technician. The A/C system also operates when the climate control system is in the defroster mode to remove moisture from the interior, so A/C is more than a summertime creature comfort. Operating an A/C system low on refrigerant not only results in poor cooling, it can also damage the system due to poor lubrication flow. Make sure that the technician servicing your car uses the correct refrigerant and refrigerant oil. Use of the wrong refrigerant or oil can reduce system performance or even cause damage.

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A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:05:08 +0000
Remaufactured A/C Compressors http://aircoparts.com/remanufactured-ac-compressors.html
1. Body: Resurfaced and checked for OEM specs.
2. Pistons: Visual inspection and replaced if necessary.
3. Valve Plates: Resurfaced to OEM specs.
4. Valve Reeds: New or Resurfaced to OEM specs.
5. Bearings: Tested and replaced as needed.
6. All seals and gaskets are replaced and are R12 / R134-A Compatible.
7. Clutches are remanufactured as necessary.
8. During assembly units go through a quality control check at key points.
9. All compressors are filled with Premium Polyol Ester Oil which is R12 / R134-A compatible. After assembly the compressors go through the toughest testing in the aftermarket.
10. Valve Plates are tested for proper discharge & suction pressure.
11. Compressor is put on a on car simulation to test for noise and proper operation.
12. Unit is then leak checked at high pressure using nitrogen. Nitrogen is lighter than air or freon.
13. Coils are checked electronically to make sure they meet OEM specs.
14. Clutches are then tested for proper operation using a on car simulation test
AIRCO follows all recommended procedures and OEM spec's. Nitrogen testing is used on all units for leaks because it is lighter than freon or air. Following that test we use on-car simulation tests for the best finished product. There are four total tests performed on each unit before it passes our quality control inspection.

We are proud to tell you our defect percentage is less than 3%! A figure new units find hard to match and when combined with Factory Direct pricing, you get the best deal!

Remanufactured parts help save you money!
Auto parts can be expensive so the use of remanufactured auto parts can help save you big cash on your next car repair. The reason why is that remanufactured parts cost a lot less than new parts - an unbelievable 50% to 90%. Some new parts are aftermarket and not OEM and May not fit right. An OEM part should always fit right.

How can aircoparts.com offer these low prices?
Most of our a/c compressors come from vehicles that have been damaged and for that reason an insurance company declares the vehicle a "total loss". Although the damage May be extensive and too costly to repair, these vehicles generally have a number of undamaged parts that can be re-used. Most of our compressors come from such vehicles. We sell to dealerships, service shops, body shops, repair shops and individuals. We can offer parts at a great value. Sound too good to be true? For example, let's say that you needed to replace an a/c compressor - Using brand new parts - you would order the compressor, clutch and pulley each at top dealership prices. Using aircoparts.com you could purchase the whole a/c compressor with clutch and pulley at a portion of what a manufacturer would charge for the compressor alone.

Remanufacturing parts help save the environment & earth
The use of recycled parts equates to two large factors. Using recycled parts reduces the need for manufacturers to produce new parts and reduces the use of new resources. Another reason is that it also prevents used parts and material from ending up in landfills.

Recycled parts - an answer to obsolete parts
A part becomes obsolete as soon as a manufacturer stops producing it. At aircoparts.com, we help you find obsolete a/c compressors and parts by remanufacturing discontinued, used and out of date parts for the vehicles that May need them.

If you are having trouble finding a part either because you own a vintage car or the manufacturer has ceased production of a part, we can offer you a solution. Anticipation of needs are resolved through storage of numerous automotive a/c parts on location and through our local suppliers. Most parts are "interchangeable" - meaning that they were built to fit several different vehicles. This May also provide an opportunity to locate the part you need.

A used compressor does not qualify as a core unless it can be remanufactured."]]>
A/C Articles Wed, 11 Feb 2009 01:03:32 +0000